Joining an infinity pattern

Now, like most things in crochet, there's more than one way to skin a cat. This is by no means the definitive way, but it is how I am working the Sunset Infinity Scarf and Wrap. I much prefer to work this way than to create a fabric and then twist and join when it is done. Especially when using colour varying yarn.

In my pattern I used foundation double crochet, and I recommended putting a stitch marker into the very first ch worked (you start with a ch4, then work back into that first ch). I recommend keeping that stitch marker while working the entire scarf or wrap. It helps you realise when you have completed a full round. In this method of infinity work, you first work along the top of the stitches, but when you come back to your stitch marker, the twist means that you are then working into the bottom of that foundation row. How? Well, read on. ;)

So, when you reach your required number of stitches, you should have two ends the same length. Take great care doing this (I managed to get my brain in a twist, but then again I've got a cold and I'm 8.5 months pregnant lol). With your work lying flat, take one side and flip it over so that the bottom becomes the top. See below. The stitch marker was at the bottom when I finished working the round, but I have flipped it over so that now it sits at the top. This is a half twist of the scarf.

Now, slip stitch into that first chain (ie the one with the stitch marker). 

Now, work along those initial chain stitches using slip stitches until you reach the third one.

You can see where the red end has now overlapped the blue end in a way as I've worked the slip stitches along those chains. Now, being very careful not to flip your work, rotate it so that you can slip stitch into the bottom of the last foundation double crochet that you worked. In effect,  you are joining the other side of the ends. 

You can see the stitch marker is back at the bottom again because I've rotated the entire fabric, and I've slip stitched back onto the red side. I'm now ready to begin working the first round. The row will head off to the left working along the bottom of the FDC and follow the twist so that when I come back to the stitch marker, I'll actually be working on the top of the FDC again. Sound trippy? it's basically a figure 8. So each row that you work, will in fact be twice the length of the original row because you are working BOTH SIDES in one go. Like this...

Here I am back at the "beginning" point. I've worked all along one side, but as I come back to the stitch marker, the next stitches presented to me to work are actually the opposite side of where I started. The hook is pointing at where I started with the red stitches.

So, I hope that this has all made sense to you, and you're ready and raring to go and try this method of working infinity style garments.

Happy Hooking
xoxo

Celebration Square

I've got that app on Facebook that brings up your old memories for that particular date. Two years ago today I had shared a post from my page Get Knotted Yarn Craft saying that I was excitedly preparing for my second son's first birthday, and looking forward to reaching 200 likes on my page.

In 2016, I'm excitedly preparing for my second son's third birthday and the arrival of our daughter in just over five weeks. To top it off, overnight my page reached 10 thousand likes!! I'm so excited and thrilled, and so very grateful to you all for your support, encouragement and loyalty. So, to say thank you, here is my new pattern - Celebration Square! I can't wait to see yours! Happy Hooking. xoxo

Celebration Square
by Angela Armstrong

Copyright Get Knotted Yarn Craft

Material

Yarn: DK

Hook: 4mm

Stitch Notes

YOH: Yarn Over Hook

Standing Stitches: you can find a great tutorial here – http://www.petalstopicots.com/2013/10/crochet-standing-stitches/

FPDC: you can find a great tutorial here for left and right handers – http://www.crochetspot.com/how-to-crochet-front-post-double-crochet-fpdc/

FPHDC: is worked the same as a FPDC, except using the HDC stitch instead.

Spike Stitch: you can find a great tutorial here for left and right handers– 
http://www.crochetspot.com/how-to-crochet-spike-stitches/

Arched Cluster: Work the first part of a FPDC around the 2^nd FPHDC of round 4 (ie, YOH, draw up a loop in the FP style, YOH and draw through the first two loops). Sk1, draw up a loop in the middle DC of round 6 (3 loops on hook now). Sk1, work the first part of a FPDC around the 3^rd FPHDC of round 4 as before. (4 loops on hook now). YOH and draw through all four loops. DO NOT CLOSE WITH A CH – this occurs in the pattern itself.

Pattern Notes

This pattern is made using US terms.

In DK this should make a 6” square. In Worsted or Aran it should be 8”.

Each round is finished with a sl st into the first st, and then tied off. The next round is then started with either a standing stitch, or by joining and chaining to make the required height.

Colour changes and choices are up to you. I changed colours with every round and used three colours, I've indicated my colour changes as colours A, B and C at the beginning of the relevant rows. 

Stitch counts are for one side of the square only, rather than the total for the round.

Pattern:

1.        (Colour A) Magic Circle. Ch3 (counts as DC). DC, ch2. [3DC, ch2] 3 times. DC. (3DC per side)

2.      (Colour B) Standing DC into any corner sp. *3DC in next 3 sts. Into the corner sp work: [2DC, ch2, 2DC]. Repeat from * three times omitting a DC in the final repeat. (7DC per side)

3.       This round is worked alternatively in rounds 1 AND 2.
(Colour A) Standing *SC in the first DC of any side. Sk1, FPDC spike around 1^st DC of R1. Ch3. FPDC spike around 3^rd DC of R1. Sk1, SC into last st of R2. Into the corner sp work: [2SC, ch2, 2SC]. Repeat from * three times, omitting a SC in the final repeat. (6SC, 2FPDC spike, 1 x ch3 sp; per side)

4.      (Colour B) Standing *HDC in the third SC in round 3, of any side. Ch1, Sk1. Push the chain from R3 to the back and work 1DC into the next 3 sts of round 2 (ie in front of the chain). Ch1, sk1, HDC in next 3 sts of round 3. Into the corner space work: [2HDC, ch2, 2HDC]. HDC into the next 2 stitches. Repeat from * three times. (10HDC, 3DC, 2 x ch1 sp; per side)

5.      (Colour A) This round is worked entirely into round 3.
Standing *FPHDC spike around the first FPDC spike of any side in round 3. Ch3, sk3, FPHDC spike around the next FPDC spike of round 3. Ch3, sk2, FPHDC spike around the last SC of R3. Ch4, sk all corner sts. FPHDC spike around the first SC of the next side. Ch3, sk2. Repeat from * three times. (4FPHDC spike, 3 x 3ch sp; per side).

6.      (Colour B) Tuck the chains on the corners of round five, behind the corner stiches of round 4. Tuck the chains on the sides backward as well. This round is worked entirely into round 4, with the chain stitches tucked behind, and the FPHDC skipped over with chains.
Standing *DC into the middle of the three central stitches in round 4. DC in next. [Ch1, sk1, DC in next 2] twice. Into the corner sp work: [2DC, ch2, 2DC]. DC in next 2, ch1, sk1, DC in next 2. Ch1, sk 1, DC in next. Repeat from * three times. (15DC, 4 x 1ch sp; per side)

7.      (Colour A) Standing *FPDC spike around the first FPHDC spike of any side in round 5. Sk1, SC into the next. Ch1, arched cluster over the next 5 sts. Ch1, SC in next. Sk1, FPDC spike around the next FPHDC. Ch1, SC into the next 4. Put a stitch marker into the first st of the next side. Into the corner sp of round 6, work: [2 spike DC, ch2, 2spike DC]. SC in next 4, Ch1. Repeat from * three times. (4 FPDC spike, 1 Arched cluster, 4 spike DC and 4 x ch1 sp; per side)

8.      (Colour A) Standing SC in any st. Work 1SC in each st (cluster counts as 1) and in each ch sp. Into the corner space work: (SC, ch2, SC). Repeat for all sides. (23SC per side)

9.      (Colour C) Standing *SC in the third st of any side. [Ch1, sk1, SC in next] 10 times. Into the corner space work: [SC, ch2, SC]. SC in next, ch1, sk1. Repeat from * three times. (14SC, 11 x ch1 sp; per side)

10.   (Colour B) Standing *SC in the first ch sp of any side. [Ch1, sk1, SC in next] 11 times. Into the corner space work: [2SC, ch1, 2SC]. SC in next, Ch1, sk1. Repeat from * three times. (17SC, 12 x ch1 sp; per side)

11.     (Colour B) Standing *SC in any stitch. Work 1SC into each SC and 1SC into each ch sp. Into the corner space work: (SC, ch2, SC). Repeat for all sides. (31SC per side).

I hope you enjoy making this square as much as I enjoyed designing it. xoxo

Copyright Snazzy Cuddles

Mandela Mandala

I believe in kindness, that we should love one another, and that we should stand up for what we believe in with grace and dignity. These are all qualities embodied by the late Nelson Mandela. He's one of my heroes. So, I decided to make a mandala in tribute to him.

My first task was inspiration. Had other people made mandalas in his name? Yes they had, and there is a wide variety out there. However, as Google does, it found some other images of mandalas that were line drawings, and one just called to me, so I decided to use it loosely as a base of inspiration.

found here: http://www.123rf.com/photo_12227481_mandala-round-ornament-pattern.html

With this design in mind, I looked through my stash, found myself a colourful palette, and started hooking. At this point I have to thank my testers Courtney and Oona for persevering through the edits in this pattern. When I get excited about something, sometimes my pattern writing skills cannot keep up with my hooking ones {giggle} and being seven months pregnant isn't helping with the thought process either. Having said that, the pattern should be straightforward now. There's a mini tutorial on the final page for round 11 - so you can choose whether to print it or not.

So, what do you think? I started with a flat center, but I changed my mind and put popcorn stitch in the center, it balances it out a bit more, but I still like the original center. You'll get to see the popcorn one once I release the square version. That will be one of a dozen squares that I'm still in the process of designing. I hope to run a BAMCAL (block a month crochet along) with them.

I made mine using DK yarn, and it's 14 inches (about 36cm) across. Courtney made hers with worsted yarn and it came in at a lovely 22 inches (about 56cm) across.

I'm really pleased with how it has come out, and I hope that you like it too. You can find it here in my pattern store: Click here to purchase the Mandela Mandala

Happy Hooking!
xoxo

May the fourth be with you! - Top Ten Star Wars Patterns

Hello everyone, it's the fourth of May today - Star Wars Day! What, you say? Say it aloud - May the fourth be with you. Giggle.
How could I not post about one of my favourite cinema sagas? So, today I've rounded up my ten favourite Star Wars patterns on Ravelry.

1. Well, we just have to start with a cuteness factor! This sweet wee scoodie by "Smushed Squirrel" is free in both baby and adult sizes. Soooo cute!

You can find the baby pattern here: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/baby-yub-nub
and the adult one here: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/yub-nub-scoodie

2. For seriously awesome Star Wars loving, you can't go past Courtney Laube of Spin a Yarn 32 and her amazing blanket. Another fabulous FREE pattern. Head over here for your copy: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/a-galaxy-far-far-away

3. For a bit of lighthearted fun these Lightsaber Cozy's are a great idea. Fast and easy gift to make, and bound to be appreciated by anyone who's ever had an uncomfortable moment while eating an Ice Block. The pattern is in three different sizes to accomodate different aged hands (great thinking)

and you can find the pattern here: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/lightsaber-ice-pop-cozy

4. If you want to express your dark side a little, then how about this fabulous Tusken Raider hat! What a beauty - guaranteed to scare the local bully at thirty paces I think. ;)
And you can get your FREE copy here: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/tusken-raider-hat-with-scarf-thingies

5. & 6. The next two patterns are from Nancy J of DefectiveGeeks. So very clever and richly done too.

Whether the Queen catches your eye, or the AT AT takes your fancy, both of these are a must have in any collection!
You can find Queen Amidala here: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/queen-amidala---red-invasion-dress
and the AT AT walker here: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/star-wars-at-at-walker

7. The list is filling fast, and really, there are so many fabulous patterns for Star Wars fans out there. I like this one because not many people think of characters other than the main protagonists, and I love the amount of detail in him. This is Blizz the Jawa by MostlyNerdyCrochet, and he's just fabulous.

You can pick up your FREE copy of his pattern right here: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/blizz-the-jawa

8. When I saw the name of this site, I laughed so much I snorted! R2D2 by Let's All Get Knitfaced is fabulous. How can you have a Star Wars collection without one of the quiet heroes?

You can find out how to make him right here: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/r2d2

9. I've yet to see the latest Star Wars movie (NO! Don't tell me what happens, lol), but there are lots of patterns out there for this wee guy, so he seems to be rather a hit! 

Head over here and start on your FREE copy today: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/bb8-from-star-wars

10. Finally, last but not least - I've saved the most comprehensive one of all. Unlike the others this is a PAID pattern, but I truly believe it's worth the money.
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/sources/star-wars-crochet/patterns

A collection of 12 patterns, this book is available on Amazon.com . If you want to have a great collection, then this is the place to go. ;)

Happy Hooking, and May the Fourth be with you!!

Alternative take on the Spiked Cluster Stitch

In a couple of my patterns now, I've used something I call the spiked cluster stitch. Most tutorials that you find on the web have five prongs, but I only want three for mine, and I want them all working into the same row.

I've been looking everywhere for a tutorial to link to, but I cannot find one done in "my way", so I'm going to torture you all with my alternative version. ;)

This stitch is used in my Million Dollar Shawl Pattern, and in a soon to be released square pattern. So I thought it was appropriate for me to "get the word out there" in advance of the new release. So, without further ado, here's my version. xoxo

Spiked Cluster Stitch

Spiked cluster stitch sounds scary, but it really isn't. It's just a combination of spike stitch, which you work several times in various ways in this pattern, and cluster stitch. It appears in Row 43 of the "Million Dollar Shawl" pattern and in round 10 of my soon to be released square.

There are two things to note, firstly, you skip a stitch. You will work sc before and after, but you do work into previous rows between them. It may help, to start with, to put a stitch marker two to the left of the last stitch you work in to show where you resume working your sc's as it becomes hidden by the bulk of the cluster when it's done. Secondly, from above, as you count the <<<<< shapes - there are two << for the cluster stitch because you finish it with a ch1, but you will count them as one, so be careful when working the next row that you don't work into both the eye and the ch. 

Each pattern is different, so you will need to read the requirements of the particular pattern you are using this method with. To start with, you will SC into x number of stitches. {See image 1}.

Image 1

Take a look at the rows below and work out which row it is that you have to work into. {image 2}   

Image 2

Visually look to the space of the stitch you are going to skip, follow it down two rows, then count two further spaces to the right. YOH, insert into that space and draw up a loop. {image 3}.  

This is very specific for the shawl pattern. In other patterns you will need to look to what the designer specifies. In my square pattern, you are directed to the exact stitch you will work into. 

Image 3

To help with tension, bring the hook right back up to the top of the work to make that spike long enough not to pull. Otherwise, you will end up with a dip in your work. YOH. {3 loops}

Insert the hook into the space directly below your skipped stitch and draw up another loop {5 loops}, again bringing it to the top of the work. {image 4}. 

Image 4

YOH, count two to the left of where you drew up the last loop, insert the hook and draw up another loop. {7 loops} and bring the hook to the top of the work. {image 5}  

Image 5

YOH and draw through all 7 loops. {image 6}

Image 6

CH1, to close the stitch and create an “eye” {image 7}

Image 7

The next sc that you work into should be just peeking out from under the last loop. {image 8}.

Image 8

 This is why you might want to put a stitch marker in, as it's usually hidden by the third post of the cluster. 

So there you have it, Spiked Cluster Stitch - done my way. ;) Maybe we should call it a tripod stitch? LOL.

Happy Hooking
xoxo

Petals and Sepals

Version 1 at the top, 2 at the bottom,
and 3 in progress on the left.

I don't do things by halves, and I often jump into projects before I've really thought them through, so this pattern has taken a little longer than usual to come together. If you ever want to design a rug in t-yarn, or bulky yarn, my advice to you is to do it in DK first. (Thanks Crochet in Paternoster for that fabulous tip).

A pity I'd already done prototypes one and two. LOL.

My second piece of advice, is design in a plain colour. I had variegated yarn to make my rugs with, and started with a busy one indeed, but it was only as I worked through it in cream DK that I saw the potential shapes, and ended up completely rewriting the pattern (I had to frog two nearly completed rugs back down to round 3). It was necessary to do it, as I discovered through my testers that the original pattern that worked in my chunky yarn and at my tension, completely bowled up (too few increases) when worked in anything else and by anyone else. So, of no use to anyone.

I'm currently reworking the second large rug (pictures to follow), but the first came out so well, and the efforts by my testers were so fabulous (thank you Margaret, Anna and Courtney) that I couldn't wait any longer to share it with you!

Feel free to work this into anything you like, beret, floor rug, doily, cushion cover. I do, however, ask that you acknowledge this page as your source of inspiration. I've spent too many hours putting this together for someone else to claim it as their own.

Petals and Sepals by Angela Armstrong
Materials: DK and 4mm hook OR Super Bulky and either 10 or 12mm hook depending on WPI.

Stitch Notes: V-stitch = DC, ch2, DC into one stitch

DC decrease = Work the first part of a DC (yo, pull up loop, yo, pull through first two); then start the next stitch and do the same, you should have three loops on your hook. YO and pull through all three to create one stitch from two.

Dtr - yarn around hook twice, draw up a loop, yo, pull through first two, yo, pull through next two, yo, pull through final two.

Pattern Notes: Chain three at the beginning of a row counts as a DC for that row. Read it as such when working repeats.
All rounds are ended with a sl st to join.
This pattern is written using US terms.

Pattern: Start with a magic circle OR Ch4 and join with a sl, st.
1. Ch 3, 11 DC into MC (12)

2. Ch4, (counts as 1DC and 1 ch), [1DC, ch1] 11 times (24)

3. Ch 3 , DC in same st, ch1. [Sk 1ch, 2DC, ch1 in next DC] 11 times (36)

4. [Ch3, DC in next. 2DC in ch sp. 1 DC in next 2st, ch2, sk ch sp] 6 times

5. [Ch3. DC in same st. DC in next 4 sts, 2DC in next st. Ch2, sk ch sp]6 times (60)

6. [Ch3. DC in next 7 sts. Ch1, 2DC in ch sp, ch1] 6 times. (72)

7. [Ch3. DC in next 7 sts. Ch1, sk ch1 and sk DC. V-stitch (DC, ch2, DC) in second DC, ch1]. 6 times. (84)

8. ch2 (counts as first half of dc) don't finish st. Work first half of dc in next st, three loops on hook. Yo, pull through all three. (This is a dc decrease). Dc in next four. Dc decrease over last two sts. Ch 1, dc in ch sp. Ch1, v stitch (dc, ch2, dc) in two ch sp. Ch1, dc in ch sp, ch1. Repeat above five times. (96)

9. [Ch3 (counts as DC) DC in next 5. Ch1, v-stitch in next DC, v-stitch in 2 ch sp, v-stitch in next DC, ch1] 6 times (120)

10. [DC decrease (use ch2 for the first time only), DC next 2sts. DC decrease. Ch1, DC in ch sp, v-stitch in next ch sp, 4DC in next ch sp, v-stitch in next ch sp, DC in next ch sp, ch1] 6 times. (120)

11. [Ch3, DC in next 3 sts. Sk ch sp, V-stitch into the next DC. V-stitch into 2 ch sp. 2DC in first DC, DC in next 2, 2DC in last DC, V-stitch into 2 ch sp, V-stitch into next DC] 6 times. (156)

12. [DC decrease (use ch2 for the first time only), DC decrease, ch2. V-stitch in 2 ch sp, v-stitch in next 2 ch sp, DC in next 6 stitches. V-stitch in next 2 ch sp, twice, ch2] 6 times. (168)

13. [Ch3, DC in next. Ch1, DC in 2 ch sp, v-stitch in next 2 ch sp, v-stitch in next 2 ch sp. Skip 2nd DC of V-stitch in round 12. 2DC in next st, DC in next 4 sts, 2 DC in next st. V-stitch in 2 ch sp, V-stitch in next 2 ch sp, DC in last 2 ch sp, ch1] 6 times. (180)

14. [Ch3, DC in same st, 2DC in next st. Ch1, v-stitch in 2 ch sp, v-stitch in next 2 ch sp, sk 2nd DC of v-stitch, and DC in next 8 sts. V-stitch in 2 ch sp, V-stitch in next 2 ch sp, ch1, sk next DC] 6 times. (180)

15. [Ch3, DC in same st. DC in next 2 sts, 2 DC in next. V-stitch in 2 ch space, V-stitch in next 2 ch sp. Sk 2nd DC of v-stitch in round 14. 2DC in first dc, DC in next 6 sts, 2 DC in last DC. V-stitch in 2 ch sp, v-stitch in next 2 ch sp] 6 times. (192)

16. Ch3, dc in same. DC in next four, 2 DC in next. Ch 1, sk v-stitch, v stitch in sp between two v st. Ch 1. Sk v st, 2DC in first st, dc in next 8, 2DC in last. Ch 1. Sk v stitch, v stitch in space between two v st. Ch 1. Sk v st. 6 times (192)

17. [Ch3, DC in same st, DC in next 6 sts, 2 DC in last. DC in ch sp, v-stitch in v-stitch, DC in ch sp, 2DC in first st, DC in next 10 sts, 2DC in last st. DC in ch sp, v-stitch in v-stitch, DC in ch sp] 6 times (216)

18. { Include the DC's forming the V-stitch as part of your counted stitches between the 2 ch sp, and the SC's}. Ch1 (does not count in stitch count), SC into same st. [SC in next 9 sts, work 9 dtr into 2 ch sp. SK 3 sts, sc into 4th. SC into next 13 sts. Work 9dtr into 2 ch sp. sk 3 sts, sc into 4th.] 6 times (252)

 Alternative to Row 18 - if like me, you find yourself with insufficient yarn, you can work a fan with 6DC instead of 9tr, or simply work 1sc into the right side of the V-stitch, then 3 more into the ch sp, and another into the left side of the v-stitch, and continue working on.

In the above picture, I ran out of yarn and ended up with the third version using only SC's. It is 92cm across from point to point, or approximately 36.5 inches.

 As you can see, there is more than one way to skin a cat, as they say. I thought it would look good in colours, so I drew a rough diagram for my friend Courtney of Spin a Yarn 32, and asked if she was able to do a colour version for me. This is what she came up with:

Colour suggestion

Courtney's Interpretation

Isn't Courtney marvellous?

This is Margaret's testing of my pattern. She used 3 ply cotton and a 2.5mm hook. I just love it!

I hope that you all love working this pattern just as much, and if there is a problem, please don't hesitate to contact me (best to do it on Ravelry, I check in there pretty frequently) I hope that you create a project page on Ravelry too. xoxo

Golden Compass Square

I've been fiddling with this square off and on for about six months now. It's had a few different looks, the final one is version FIVE! LOL.

Then, once I had the design to my liking, the next struggle was naming it. For those of you who don't know me, I have the gift of the gab - I can talk the hind leg off a mule - and I write the same way. So, naming stuff is usually not an issue for me. I love alliteration and I love puns, but for this square, finding an original name was just not working for me. So I asked in my group for some help.

Compass Square? Cross Hairs? Dianthus flower? Compass Rose? Guiding Light? They're all good names, but nothing was really punching it for me. So, I did a bit of research on compass roses - do you have any idea how many different kinds of images there are for them? Or how beautiful they can be? Here's a small sample of my search hits:

Aren't they just beautiful?

Now, as I searched and scrolled and gathered inspiration, I kept getting images from the movie "The Golden Compass". I've read the books many years ago and liked them, although I've not seen the movie, but the name started ringing in my head. Originally I started working this square in purples and blues, but I knew that if I was going to name it the golden compass, then I needed to switch colourway. So, here are versions one to four of the square for you to have a laugh at, lol, but also hopefully for you to get inspiration. Designing isn't always a light-bulb or lightning strike moment. Often it involves swearing, frogging, cursing, throwing things across the room and lots of general grumbling - having said that, I love it. ;) You are only limited by your imagination, and you alone know how wonderful it is. <3

Version 1

Version 3

Version 2

  

Version 4

One final thing before we start hooking together - the four main compass points (North, South, East, West) are known as the Cardinal Directions. This was ALMOST the name of the square - my husband is a priest in the Anglican Church, so it really tickled my funny bone. So, without further ado, here's what you need and how to make it. <3

Golden Compass Square

This pattern is worked in USA terms. I used a 4mm hook and 8 ply yarn to achieve a six inch square.

Special Stitches:

Treble stitch (TR): Yarn over hook (YOH) twice, insert into fabric, draw up one loop, YOH once, draw through the first two loops, YOH once, draw through next two loops, YOH once, draw through final two loops

Back Post Single Crochet (BPSC): watch this excellent tutorial
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RcbTd4mQ5_k

Front Post Treble (FPTR): Make a treble stitch inserting the hook into the fabric the opposite way you would for a BPSC. Check out this tutorial
http://crochetparfait.blogspot.com.au/p/fptr-front-post-triple-or-treble-crochet.html

I also have a mini photo tutorial in the pattern. <3

Spike stitch: A spike stitch is a stitch worked into a round prior to the one that you would ordinarily work in. For example, in round six you work a SC spike down into round four in the corners.

Pattern Details:

Starting and finishing your rounds:

I start each round with a standing stitch, having tied off EVERY round. The following tutorials are for standing DC, but the same principal applies to other stitches.

You can read a very good tutorial here:
http://www.petalstopicots.com/2013/10/crochet-standing-stitches/

Or watch a great video here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_RV9f9qvvgA

I tie off each round and cut the yarn, even when the next round is in the same colour. I use the invisible join, you can watch a tutorial here:
http://newstitchaday.com/how-to-crochet-the-invisible-join-in-the-round/

If your square turns out to be a different size:

I worked this pattern using a 4mm hook and 8ply yarn to achieve a six inch square. You may alter hook and yarn accordingly to your wishes, however, your square may be a different size. Everyone hooks differently, measure your work as you go and if necessary add or leave off rounds. You can find a great tutorial on sizing your square here
http://www.mooglyblog.com/make-work-getting-afghan-squares-size-need/

When do I change colours?:

I have made two variations of the square, one using three colours, one using four. You can change colours wherever you wish, but if you want to achieve either of the looks I have created, for the gold, red and blue version, R1: colour A, R2: colour B, R3: colour A, R4 & 5: colour B, R6: colour C, R7: colour B, R8: colour A, R9: colour B.

For the 4 colour purple and blue version: R1: colour A, R2: colour B, R3: colour C, R4 & 5: colour B, R6: colour D, R7: colour B, R8: colour D, R9: colour B.

Pattern:

ch4, slip stitch to join 

R1: ch4 (counts as treble - this is US treble, not UK - yoh twice), make 15 more trebles (16)

R2: Working BETWEEN the stitches of round 1, *2dc, ch1* in each space around – (48)

R3: Start in any DC to the left of a ch1 sp. This row consists of SC in each DC and each chain 1 space – EXCEPT – every 12th stitch is a Front Post Treble around a Treble from round one. See photographs below. (48)

Starting the FPTR

YOH Twice

Pass the hook behind the TR

Draw up your first loop

YOH & draw through first two loops

YOH & draw through second two loops

Almost done!

Round 3 Finished

YOH & draw through final two loops

R4: Starting 2 stitches before a FPTR in R3: back post SC in each stitch around – (48)

R5: Start 2 stitches before the FPTR in round 3, SC6, HDC1, DC1, *(DC, 1 TR, ch1, 1 TR DC - this is the corner, so all in one stitch), DC in next stitch, HDC, SC7, HDC, DC* - repeat twice, then (DC, TR, ch1, TR, DC), SC1.

R6: Start above a FPTR from round 3, 8SC, then (1SC into ch space between 2 trebles from row 5, ch1, then spike stitch SC down to row 4, ch1, then SC in ch space between the 2 trebles from row five again), then starting in the next treble, work 15SC. Repeat twice more and make one more corner followed by 7SC. (68SC, 4 spike SC, 8 ch1 Spaces).

R7: Back post DC around - corners are back post around the SC in the corner space, DC in the one chain space, chain 2, DC in the one chain space back post DC along the next side. (76DC, 4 ch2 spaces).

R8: HDC around. Corners are 2HDC, ch2, 2HDC into the chain space of round 7. (92 HDC, 4 ch2 spaces)

R9: BPHDC around - Corners are HDC, ch2, HDC in the chain space of round 8. (100 HDC, 4 ch2 spaces).