Thursday, 21 April 2016

Alternative take on the Spiked Cluster Stitch

In a couple of my patterns now, I've used something I call the spiked cluster stitch. Most tutorials that you find on the web have five prongs, but I only want three for mine, and I want them all working into the same row.

I've been looking everywhere for a tutorial to link to, but I cannot find one done in "my way", so I'm going to torture you all with my alternative version. ;)

This stitch is used in my Million Dollar Shawl Pattern, and in a soon to be released square pattern. So I thought it was appropriate for me to "get the word out there" in advance of the new release. So, without further ado, here's my version. xoxo

Spiked Cluster Stitch

Spiked cluster stitch sounds scary, but it really isn't. It's just a combination of spike stitch, which you work several times in various ways in this pattern, and cluster stitch. It appears in Row 43 of the "Million Dollar Shawl" pattern and in round 10 of my soon to be released square.

There are two things to note, firstly, you skip a stitch. You will work sc before and after, but you do work into previous rows between them. It may help, to start with, to put a stitch marker two to the left of the last stitch you work in to show where you resume working your sc's as it becomes hidden by the bulk of the cluster when it's done. Secondly, from above, as you count the <<<<< shapes - there are two << for the cluster stitch because you finish it with a ch1, but you will count them as one, so be careful when working the next row that you don't work into both the eye and the ch. 

Each pattern is different, so you will need to read the requirements of the particular pattern you are using this method with. To start with, you will SC into x number of stitches. {See image 1}.

Image 1

Take a look at the rows below and work out which row it is that you have to work into. {image 2}   

Image 2

Visually look to the space of the stitch you are going to skip, follow it down two rows, then count two further spaces to the right. YOH, insert into that space and draw up a loop. {image 3}.  
This is very specific for the shawl pattern. In other patterns you will need to look to what the designer specifies. In my square pattern, you are directed to the exact stitch you will work into. 

Image 3

To help with tension, bring the hook right back up to the top of the work to make that spike long enough not to pull. Otherwise, you will end up with a dip in your work. YOH. {3 loops}

Insert the hook into the space directly below your skipped stitch and draw up another loop {5 loops}, again bringing it to the top of the work. {image 4}. 

Image 4

YOH, count two to the left of where you drew up the last loop, insert the hook and draw up another loop. {7 loops} and bring the hook to the top of the work. {image 5}  

Image 5

YOH and draw through all 7 loops. {image 6}

Image 6

CH1, to close the stitch and create an “eye” {image 7}

Image 7

The next sc that you work into should be just peeking out from under the last loop. {image 8}.

Image 8

 This is why you might want to put a stitch marker in, as it's usually hidden by the third post of the cluster. 

So there you have it, Spiked Cluster Stitch - done my way. ;) Maybe we should call it a tripod stitch? LOL.

Happy Hooking

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